He designed superabsorbent microfibers for operations rooms

The common point between the swimsuit Speedo American champion Michael Phelps, the machines dress green anise Michelle Obama and ladies body warmer Moncler "lacquered" of the fashionistas of this winter Answer: their fabrics are "made mainland Europe" and demonstrate that, despite creativity. A sentiment shared by the first Vision exhibitors, inescapable rendezvous of best world weavers (and fashion designers) more generally who met this week in Paris - Nord Villepinte.

Noticeable as early as last spring, the crisis is diving order 20 to 50 books, but it has not discouraged the exhibitors from around the world and whose number (682 329 Italians and 100 French) moves from 2.8 from one year to the other. "During the crisis the future continues", can be read in the press pack. "Shift in time or prolonged slump" Philippe Pasquet, the Director General of the show, does not read in crystal balls. He noted that the absolute lack of visibility pushing some U.S. customers "to the irrational, to the total judgment of commands". But in contrast to the automotive sector, where subcontractors and suppliers dive all at the same time "in fashion, brands suppliers, ultra-specialized SMEs can continue to well thanks to a product that cartonne". He is sure of one thing: the post-crisis will benefit those who will have even more than before invested in creativity. The strong European textile supply specifically, refocused point for 20 years on technical fabrics, luxury and small series. Conversely, "the long cycles, remote productions in major series with the risks that it poses in terms of quality will be slightly less attractive". It is to dream of a "partial relocation". "". We begin to see in denim, where demand is more on European productions with the finishing and making Tunisia and the Morocco.

Technical fabrics

Schoeller is a perfect example of what innovation can do for textiles. This SME of German-speaking Switzerland ultra-respectueuse of the environment and once specialized in woolens for the manufacture, negotiated the turn of technical fabrics twenty years from one of the products: Elanka, elastic tissue of ski wear. The company is specialized in adapting to the market of the mode of treatment invented originally for technical and sporting uses. Examples. 3XDRY technology, which allows any fiber, including cotton, to absorb sweat three times faster. "The end of the aureoles of sweating", promises Christine Hübner, Director of the communication. The great sportswear, CAT, New Balance, and the mode, Perry Ellis or Daks, adopted it. Another recent invention of Schoeller: the double Coldblack effect, which allows for the black and dark fabrics to absorb light and clear tones with the additional benefit of blocking the UV. Or while still v. Change, a new membrane, breathable as the Gore-Tex but more sophisticated, since polymers that make up open to let the sweating (or retract) the external temperature, ensuring total sealing of the garment.

Provider of luxury

In Italy, Mectex has invested 4 million euros, between 2001 and 2003, in the treatment of surfaces. Result: the Plasma CME, from nanotechnology, which, added to the Teflon, allows water to drag onto itch equipped by Speedo swimsuit. Mectex has fire-resistant fabrics for the Ferrari drivers and Italian "carabiniere". He designed superabsorbent microfibers for operations rooms. And manufactures tissue "wash and wear" dresses bi-élastique Diane Von Furstenberg or those of the swimwear Gucci and Vuitton. Because it is the other trend of recent years: decompartmentalization became the rule for the weavers generation. "There is no border between fashion on one side and ultra-techniques and the administration regulated markets", observes Olivier Balas, Balas Textile pattern. An advantage in times of crisis. Based in Saint-Chamont, his company provides Pyrenex and Moncler, fabric "down proof" not allowing down. It also manufactures polyamides "affected cotton" the crankshaft swimwear. One of its subsidiaries specializing in ultrafine mesh, for the Aubade lingerie, and son thermorégulants production used by Lafuma and Millet for their polar and the clothing of the NFB and Eurotunnel employees.

The most striking case of decompartmentalization is undoubtedly offered by Italian Limonta. This manufacturer of upholstery and coating of soils for sports halls is imposed as a provider of luxury with its mixtures of natural and synthetic fibres: cottons and nylons coated to brave the weather, fine wools of Tasmania associated with rayon and viscose for more comfort and ease of maintenance. Group surfing as well on the success of the lines of sportswear of Prada, Hermès and works with young designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Marc Jacobs or sport chic labels, such as Bogner. Its Director General, Aurelio Rigamonti, is proud to have drawn from oblivion the abaca, a natural fibre cousin of hemp which associated the polyamide gives the appearance as precious as silk fabric. Demonstration of the art consumed Italians to blend ancestral know-how and cutting-edge technologies.